Some of the most commonly
used pool cleaning tools are described in next section.
You may have used them one time or the other to cleanse
your pool.
Telepoles
Telescoping pole or
telepole is heart of the cleaning system. Telepoles are
made of aluminum or fiberglass. There are several sizes,
from a 4-foot pole that telescopes to 8 feet, all the way
up to a 12-foot pole that telescopes to 24 feet (by
pulling the inner pole out of the outer one). The one you
will use most on pools is 8 feet long, telescoping to 16
feet. The end of the pole has a handgrip or a rounded tip
to prevent your hand from slipping off the pole. The tip
might also include a magnet for picking up hairpins or
nails from the pool bottom. To lock the two poles
together, there is a cam lock or compression nut ring.
When you purchase your
first telepole, take it apart and observe how this cam
system works. Sooner or later, scale, corrosion, or wear
and tear will clog or jam the cam. Rather than buy an
entirely new telepole, you can take it apart, clean it up,
replace the cam if necessary, and get on with the job.
The other locking device
for telepoles is a compression nut ring. By twisting the
ring at the joint of the two poles, pressure is applied to
the inner pole, locking the two together.
At the end of the outer
pole you will notice two small holes drilled through each
side, about 2 inches from the end and again about 6 inches
higher. The various tools you will use are designed to fit
the diameter of the pole. You attach them to the pole by
sliding the end of the tool into the end of the pole.
Small clips inside the tool have nipples that snap into
place in one of these sets of holes, locking the tool in
place. other tools are designed to slip over the
circumference of the pole, but they also use a clip device
to secure the tool to the holes at the end of the telepole.
Leaf
Rake/Skimmer
Leaf rakes are used to
remove the leaf and other debris from the pool. Figure 1
shows a professional, deep-net leaf rake. The net itself
is made from stainless steel mesh and the frame is
aluminum with a generous 16-inch wide opening. There are
numerous leaf rakes (deep net) and skimmer nets (shallow
net) you can buy, but only the one pictured will last. The
cheap ones are made from plastic net material and frames.
Although the original price is about twice that of the
cheap ones, metal ones last a long time and resist tearing
when you are scooping out huge volumes of wet leaves after
a windy autumn day. They also stand up to rubbing them
along rough plaster surfaces, thanks to a rubber-plastic
gasket that fits around the edge, unlike the plastic rakes
that break or wear down when you apply such pressures.
The leaf rake shank fits
into the telepole and clips in place as described
previously. Some leaf rakes are designed so you can
disassemble them and replace the netting, which is fine if
you have the time and patience to do it.
Wall and
Floor Brush
Wall brush are used to
remove the dirt, stains and other material sticking on the
interior surface. The wall brush is designed to brush pool
and spa interior surfaces. Made of an aluminum frame with
a shank that fits the telepole, the nylon bristles are
built on the brush either straight across or curved
slightly at each end.
The curved unit is useful
for getting into pool corners and tight step areas.
Wall brushes come in
various sizes, the most common for pool use being 18
inches wide. Don't ever use a wire brush that is not
stainless steel in a pool or spa. Steel bristles can snap
off during brushing and leave stains on the plaster when
they rust. Also, if they are a bit rusty already, when you
brush the plaster you will transfer the rust to the
plaster, causing a stain.
Vacuum Head
and Hose
Vacuum are used to suck the
dirt out of the pool or spa. There are two ways to vacuum
the bottom of a pool or spa. One sucks dirt from the water
and sends it to the filter. The other uses water pressure
from a garden hose to force debris into a bag that you
then remove and clean (leaf vacuum).
The vacuum head and hose
are designed to operate with the pool or spa circulation
equipment. The hose is attached at one end to the bottom
of the skimmer opening and at the other end to the vacuum
head. The vacuum head is also attached to the telepole.
With the pump running, you glide the vacuum head over the
underwater surfaces, vacuuming up the dirt directly to the
filter.
Vacuum heads are made of
flexible plastic, with plastic wheels that keep the head
just above the pool surface. The flexibility of the head
allows it to contour to the curvature of pool corners and
bottoms. Adjustable-height wheels allow you to set the
vacuum head to the best clearance for each pool's
conditions. The closer to the surface, the better the
removal of dirt. But if the suction is too great, it might
suck the vacuum head right onto the surface, rendering it
immobile. In this case, adjust the head height upward.
Wheels for vacuum heads are
made of plastic or high-tech composite resins. Their
bearing systems can be as simple as a hole in the wheel
through which the axle is inserted or wheels with ball
bearings to distribute the load and help the vacuum glide
smoothly.
Some commercial vacuum
heads are made several feet wide and are built of
stainless steel. Another type is a plastic helmet style,
with a ridge of bristles instead of wheels. This vacuum
head is used for vinyl pools, fiberglass spas, and when
breaking in new plaster. In each of these cases, standard
wheels can tear or score the surface. The brush vacuum is
not only less harsh, but it brushes dirt loose from the
surface being vacuumed for easier removal.
Hoses are available in
different models, and in various lengths (10 to 50 feet).
The hose cuff is made 1 1/4- or 1 1/2-inch diameter to be
used with similar vacuum head dimensions. Cuffs are female
threaded at the end that attaches to the hose so you can
screw replacement cuffs onto a hose. The best cuffs swivel
on the end of the hose, so when you are vacuuming there is
less tendency for the hose to coil and kink. Another
valuable hose fitting is the connector. It is designed
with female threads on both ends to allow joining of two
hose lengths-a useful feature when you encounter a large
or extremely deep pool.
Leaf Vacuum
and Garden Hose
The Leaf vacuum is used
when there are many leaves or other debris in the pool.
Its effectiveness is dependent on the water pressure form
the garden hose. Leafmasters are made in rigid plastic or
aluminum.
The leafmaster is one which
is attached to the telepole and a garden hose, operates by
forcing water from the hose into the unit where it is
diverted into dozens of tiny jets that are directed upward
toward a fabric bag on top of the unit. The upwelling
water creates a vacuum at the base of the plastic helmet,
sucking leaves and debris into the unit and up into the
bag. Water passes through the mesh of the bag but the
debris is trapped.
Fine dirt passes through
the filter bag, but a fine-mesh bag is sold for these
units that will capture more dirt. When the bag has a few
leaves in it, they will also trap much of the sand and
other fine particulate matter that would otherwise pass
through.
The only other drawback to
the leafmaster is if you are in a location where water
pressure from the garden hose is weak. The result is weak
jet action and weak suction. The other result is that as
debris fills the bag, the weight of it (especially wet
leaves) tips the bag over, scraping the pool floor,
stirring up debris, or tangling with the hose. The latter
problem is easily solved by putting a tennis ball in the
bag before placing it in the pool. The tennis ball floats,
keeping the bag upright.
To remove the leaf vacuum,
turn it slightly to one side and slowly lift it through
the water to the surface. If pulled straight up, some of
the debris is forced out of the bag and back into the
pool. So do not turn off the water till the leafmaster is
out of the pool water and on to the deck.
Tile Brush
and Tile Soap
Tile brush is used to clean
the tile. Tile brushes are made to snap into your telepole
so you can scrub the tile without too much bending.
Mounted to a simple L-shaped, two-part aluminum tube, the
brush itself is about 3-by-5 inches with a fairly abrasive
foam pad for effective scrubbing.
Tile soap is sold in
standard preparation at the supply house. Mix one part of
muriatic acid to five parts of soap. This will help cut
the stubborn stains and oils, but it will also eat into
the plastic on the tile brush pads and plastic barbecue
grill brush handle, so keep rinsing them in pool water
after each application and scrubbing. Don't use other
types of soap in place of tile formulations, because they
might foam and suds up when they enter the circulation
system.
Spa Vacuum
Cleaning a spa is much like
cleaning a pool, only many of the tools are smaller.The
smaller version of the leaf vacuum is called spa vacuum.
It works on the same principle using a garden hose for
water pressure to create suction. The dirt and debris are
forced into a small sock and, like the leaf vacuum bag,
fine dirt passes through the bag.
The spa vacuum attaches to
the telepole and is provided with various attachments,
much like a household vacuum cleaner, for getting into
crevices or brushing while you vacuum. The spa vacuum is
also a useful tool for sucking up small hairpins, nails,
coins, or other hard to grab items from the bottom of
pools.
Pumic
Stones
Pumic stone are used to
remove the scale from tiles and other deposits or stains
from plaster surfaces without scratching them excessively.
The soft pumice stone is made from volcanic ash and is
used for its abrasive action. Pumice stones are sold as
blocks, and as small bladed stones that attach to your
telepole for reaching tight spaces and underwater depths.
Since pumice stones disintegrate, it is advisable to scrub
before you vacuum clean the pool. A good alternative to
pumice, which scratches easily on fiberglass, is a block
of styrofoam or similar plastic foam.
Acid
Spotter
Many leaves will stain
plaster, but they bleach out with normal chlorination over
a few days. Some stains simply cannot be removed, such as
when rebar or a rebar tie has started to corrode from
beneath the pool floor.
The acid spotter is a
useful tool, which allows you to deliver full-strength
acid to a stain at the bottom of a body of water. The disc
portion attaches to the telepole for placement over a
stained area. A small plastic hose runs from the disc to a
bottle of muriatic acid on the deck. You start a siphon
and drain acid into the disc, where it is kept in direct
contact with the stain. It is time-consuming and not
always necessary.
Water
Testing Kits
Test kits and Thermometers
are important part of cleaning and maintenance. Using your
test kit, perform the necessary test to make chemical
adjustments in the water. Pool and Spa owners must still
conduct home tests of their pool or spa water at least
once a week.
A thermometer is needed to
check heater performance, spa temperatures, and other
questions or concern about pool or spa water.
Different designs of
automatic pool cleaner available today. Basically there
are two categories of automatic pool cleaner in common use
today and three other technologies which might be in use.
Electric
Robot
The electric robot type are
the automatic pool cleaner, are expensive and most often
found on large commercial pools. It is more like a
battery-powered vacuum cleaner with a bag that catches
debris as the unit patrols the pool bottom.
Boosterless
Water Pressure Designs
Booster Type
Some automatic cleaners
work like your leaf vacuum, by sending a pressurized
stream of water up into a catch bag, creating a vacuum for
the unit as it patrols the bottom. The pressure is created
by taking return water and boosting the pressure with a
separate pump and motor. This is the boostered type of
automatic cleaner.
Boosterless
But in the Boosterless
water pressure design there is a small variation in the
unit that uses the circulation pump itself as the booster,
by connecting to the return line after the pump but before
the filter. This style is called boosterless because it
uses no separate water pressure boosting device. These
units require an automated valve and control system so
that the heater doesn't try to operate while the cleaning
unit is in operation. This is the drawback of the system.
If the cleaner and heater are on simultaneously, the
cleaner receives the return water before the heater, thus
starving the heater. Low water circulation in the heater
will cause it to shut off or overheat. Boosterless
cleaners are not popular units because you can't filter
and heat the water at the same time you vacuum debris, and
also additional expensive plumbing and controls are
needed.
Self-cleaning Systems
The bottom of the pool is
fitted with a series of jets. These jets would push the
dirt from the shallow end to the deep end, each jet
sweeping the dirt toward the deepest part of the pool
where the main drain would suck it into the filter system.
The jets are connected to a diverter at the circulation
equipment area. As the water leaves the heater destined
for the pool, it passes through the diverter which sends
it to the floor jets on the shallow end first, then the
deeper jets, and so on. In this type of system it is
presumed that the dirt will come loose from the floor by
these jets and not stick to the floor, and also the dirt
will be only of the finer type that will not clog the main
drains. Last, it assumed that these jets, would equally
cover all areas of the bottom. Obviously, the jet sweeping
action is greatest near the source, then gets
progressively weaker as the jetstream moves outward,
resulting in uneven cleaning. Some times the water
pressure may not be strong enough to power such a system.
This design creates stress
on the entire plumbing and equipment system. When the
diverter switches flow from one set of jets to the next,
the whole circulation gets restricted or closed creating
backpressure and stress on the entire system, since this
happens three to four times a minute.
Booster Pump
Systems
As described earlier,
booster pump systems take water after the filter and
heater, which is already on its way back to the pool,
pressurizing it by a separate pump and motor, then sending
this high-pressure water stream through flexible hoses
into a cleaner that patrols the pool bottom.
The Booster pump systems
are of two styles first is called a vacuum head type which
has its own catch bag for collecting debris, much like a
vacuum cleaner. The other type is sweep head type that
floats on top of the water with long flexible arms that
swirl along the walls and bottom, stirring up the debris.
A special basket is fitted over the main drain so that the
stirred-up debris is caught in either the main drain or
the skimmer and any fine dirt is filtered out normally.
Let us review the details of each type.
Vacuum head type
Polaris Vac Sweep is the
best example of this type. As with other pool and spa
equipment, if you understand the leading manufacturer's
equipment, you will easily comprehend the operating
concepts of the others.
The vacuum unit is with a
catch bag and pressurized water from the booster pump
enters the unit through the stalk and some is immediately
jetted out the tail. This water pressure causes the tail
to sweep back and forth behind the unit to brush loose any
fine dirt on the bottom that is then filtered out by the
pool circulation system. The remainder of the water powers
a turbine that has a horizontal shaft with gear teeth to
engage comparable gear teeth on the inside of the single
left-side wheel and the front right-side wheel. A small
right-side drive wheel transfers power to the trailing
right-side wheel as the unit moves forward. Some jetted
water is diverted to the thrust jet which can be adjusted
up or down to help keep the unit from moving nose-up. The
head float also serves this function and keeps the unit
upright.
Installation Vac Sweeps are
available as preplumbed units, where the supply pipe from
the equipment to the pool area is plumbed into the
original pool plumbing. They are also available as
over-deck models, which requires a garden hose be run from
the equipment area over the deck to the pool's edge. The
booster pump and vacuum unit are identical, only the
plumbing between the two are different with these two
models. A complete installation guide is provided with the
unit when purchased.
Operation Here are few
guidelines that will help you keep the vacuum head
automatic cleaner cleaning the pool efficiently. Always
operate the booster pump with the circulation pump working
too. The booster is not self-priming, but relies on the
system circulation pump to provide water. If it runs dry,
the plastic pump will overheat and may burn out the seal.
Be careful to set the
booster time clock to come on at least one hour after the
circulation pump and to go off at least one hour before
the circulation pump does for, more than that and you are
just wearing out components. This allows for slight time
differences between the clocks. The vacuum head will cover
as much of the pool as it's going to cover in about three
hours.
Then install the catch bag
to capture fine dirt and sand. Empty the catch bag as
needed. Make sure the openings on the bottom and through
the center of the unit are not clogged with large leaves
so there is always a clear path for the debris to get into
the bag.
Repairs Perhaps the
simplest way to explain the few repairs needed by these
cleaners is to list the symptoms of the problems you might
encounter.
- If water is not flowing
out one or more of the jets in the vacuum unit, it may
be because the jets inside the unit are small and grains
of sand can clog them. To catch these particles that get
through the filter, install a fine-mesh strainer at the
point where the plumbing connects to the feeder hose.
Sometimes dirt or sand can, however, be picked up by the
unit and clog any of the internal jets. If this happens,
there is probably sand or dirt in other parts of the
unit as well. Disassemble the unit carefully note how
the unit comes apart so that you will know exactly how
to put it back and clean each part thoroughly. Use a
thin wire to clear out the jets. Follow the path of the
water and simply clean it all out.
- If vacuum head does not
pick up debris, the water pressure supplied to the
vacuum might be too powerful for normal operation. This
happens when the return pressure is very strong. Special
pressure reducing washers can be added at the vacuum
hose connection. These washers are smaller in diameter
than the plumbing so they restrict the amount of water
that flows to the vacuum head.
- If wheels are not
turning, it is because over the period of time the metal
drive gear wears out the plastic drive gear inside the
wheels. Check to make sure the gears are meshing and
that there are enough teeth on the inside of each wheel.
If they do not engage properly, replace them. If the
wheels are sloppy, they will also fail to properly
engage with the drive gear. Replace the wheel bearings,
which simply pop in place like a pump seal. Sometimes
the wheels are not turning because the vacuum unit is
not performing well then the booster pump is not getting
enough water because of restrictions in the main
circulation system. Clean the filter and circulation
system and you will usually find that the automatic pool
cleaner works better.
- If vacuum unit falls
over, remove the head float by pulling it off of the
stalk, taking care not to break the stalk. If it is full
of water, it is not floating the unit upright, replace
it.
- The screws that secure
the wheels are made of plastic. Over tightening will
snap them, breaking the screw. If this happens, replace
the screw.
- The tail assembly will
be the first thing to wear out because it is constantly
sweeping the pool bottom and sides. Water will squirt
out of parts of the hose where it shouldn't, making the
tail swing wildly. To help prevent this, the tail is
fitted with rubber rings that absorb the wear, so as you
see these rings wearing down, replace them before the
tail goes.
- Wheels seize up.
Sometimes the drive wheel gets hung up and actually
prevents the wheels from turning. Since the tension for
the drive wheel is spring loaded, the tension will
either be too much or too little, as the spring wears
out. Remove this drive wheel completely from the units.
The turbine powers the front wheel on the right side and
the single wheel on the left side with the rear
right-side wheel just trailing behind. The unit works
fine and the wheels never seize up. Try it.
- Unit gets caught in
ladder, corner, or steps. The irregular-shaped pools
that are popular today are the automatic pool cleaner's
nightmare. if all adjustments and hose lengths are
correct but you still have problems, a backup valve is
the answer. This valve shuts off the water supply to the
vacuum unit about every five minutes, shooting the water
out of the valve to act as a jet to pull the unit
backwards. Read the directions that come with the backup
valve for installation and servicing instructions. They
work very well.
- If unit runs too fast,
just skipping over the dirt, simply follow the simple
instructions provided and test the pressure at poolside
to determine if pressure-reducing washers are needed. On
some pool systems the return water pressure is very
strong, and the vacuum head pressure is too great for
normal operation. If so, this simple reduction technique
employs a washer with a smaller diameter than the
plumbing, thus restricting the amount of water that can
flow to the vacuum head.
This pressure tester is a
valuable tool to use when you suspect inadequate pressure
might be the cause of sluggish operation. Pressure values
and test techniques are explained in the installation
booklet or test kit instructions.
Sweep head type
The Sweep head type is a
booster pump that floats on the water and has long
,flexible, swirling arms that stir up the debris found
along the pool walls and bottom. Arneson is the best
example of this type. The main drain uses suction to pull
the agitated debris into its basket which is removed and
emptied when full, the finer dirt getting caught in the
filter.
If you service a pool with
one of these units, they are not hard to maintain or
figure out. Installation, operation, and troubleshooting
guidelines are very much as described previously.
Suction-side
Systems
Suction-side automatic pool
cleaners uses the suction from the pool's skimmer. In this
design, a standard vacuum hose of 1-1/2 inch diameter is
connected between the skimmer suction opening at one end
and a vacuum head that patrols the pool bottom at the
other end.
As the vacuum patrols the
pool it collects leaves and other debris and sends it to
the pump strainer pot. When the pot fills with
obstructions, suction is dramatically reduced, causing the
cleaner to become inefficient. To prevent this keep the
strainer pot clean or add a leaf collecting canister to
the vacuum hose. A simple in line canister is easier than
the pump strainer pot and can be purchased at a pool
supply store. Troubleshooting will usually find leaves and
debris clogged somewhere in the system or the inability of
the circulation pump to generate enough suction to make
the vacuum effective.
There are a few basic
procedures that are efficient and save time which any one
can follow. Determining the surface composition before
starting the cleanup procedure.
Deck and Cover
Cleaning
Remove as much debris as
possible from the pool or spa deck and cover before
removing it. A quick sweep or hosing can remove the debris
near the pool. If the cover is a floating type without a
roller system, be sure to fold or place it on a clean
surface. Otherwise, when you put it back in place it will
drag leaves, grass, or dirt into the pool. If it is a
mechanized cover system, any small amount of standing
water on top of the cover will slide off as you roll it
up. If there is greater amount of water motor will be
laboring, so you will need to use the water removal pump.
Also be careful to avoid abrasive or sharp surfaces as you
drag the cover off of the pool.
Surface
Skimming
Dirt floating on the
surface of the water is easier to remove than to remove it
from the bottom. Remove floating debris off the surface,
using a leaf rake and telepole. As the net fills, empty it
into a trash can or plastic garbage bag. Do not empty your
skimming debris into the garden or on the lawn for the
debris is likely to blow right back into the pool as soon
as it dries out.
There is no particular
method to skim, but as you do, scrape the tile line, which
acts as a magnet for small bits of leaves and dirt. The
rubber-plastic edge gasket on the professional leaf rake
will prevent scratching the tile.
If there is scum or
general dirt on the water surface, squirt a quick shot of
tile soap over the length of the pool. The soap will
spread the scum toward the edges of the pool, making it
more concentrated and easier to skim off.
Tiles
Always do the tiles
first. Dirt falls from the tiles as they are being cleaned
and settles to the bottom of the pool. If you need to
remove stubborn stains with a pumice stone, the pumice
itself breaks down as you scrub, depositing debris on the
bottom.
Use the tile soap and
tile brush to clean the tiles. Apply a squirt of tile soap
directly to the brush and start scrubbing. To remove
stubborn stains and oils, mix one part muriatic acid to
five parts of soap. When cleaning tile, scrub below the
waterline as well as above. Evaporation and refilling can
change the water line. Never use really abrasive brushes
or scouring pads to clean tiles they may cause scratches.
Water Level
If you add an inch or so
of water to the pool each time you service it, you will
probably keep up with normal evaporation. If you wait a
few weeks until the level is several inches low, it will
take hours to fill. Never leave the water on to fill by
itself for it may take longer and most likely you may
forget to turn it off.
After rains you might
need to lower the pool level. In this case, use your
submersible pump and a backwash hose or spare vacuum hose
for the discharge. Alternatively, you can run the pool
circulation system and turn the valves to waste. If you
use this method, remember to return the valves to normal
circulation.
Equipment
Check
Checking your equipment
and maintaining your support system is best way to solve
the small corrective problems.
Start by circulation
system by following the path of the water. Clean out the
pool's skimmer basket and Emptying the contents of the
skimmer basket into your trash can or garbage bag.
Next, open the pump
strainer basket and clean it. Check the pressure of the
filter. There is no point in checking it before cleaning
out the skimmer and strainer baskets, because if they are
full the filter pressure will be low and will come back up
after cleaning the baskets. If the pressure is high, the
filter might need cleaning.
Now check the heater for
leaves or debris. Turn the heater on and off a few times
to make sure it is operating properly. While the heater is
running, turn the pump off. The heater should shut off by
itself when the pressure from the pump drops. This is an
important safety check.
Now check the time clock
for the time of the day ; setting for the daily filter
runs; setting for the cleaner's clock. Always check the
clocks because trippers come loose and power fluctuations
or some service work on household items unrelated to the
pool can also affect the clocks. Also, electromechanical
time clocks are not exactly precision instruments. One
might run slightly faster than another, so over a few
weeks one might show a difference of an hour or more,
upsetting your planned timing schedule.
After the equipment
check, look for leaks or other early signs of equipment
failure. Clean up the equipment area by removing leaves
from around the motor vents and heater to prevent fires,
and clear deck drains of debris that could prevent water
from draining away from the equipment during rain.
Vacuuming
If the pool is not dirty,
simply brush the walls and bottom, skipping the vacuuming
completely. If the pool or spa is dirty, however, you have
two ways to clean it: vacuuming to the filter or vacuuming
with the leafmaster.
Vacuum to filter
Dirt collected from the
pool or spa is sent to the filter of the circulation
system. This is Vacuuming to filter.
- Run the circulation
system correctly and that all suction is concentrated at
the skimmer port. Use your skimmer diverter for this
process if dealing with a single port skimmer. If the
system includes valves for diversion of suction between
the main drain and the skimmer, close the main drain
valve completely and turn the open skimmer valve
completely . If there are two skimmers in the pool,
close off one by covering the skimmer suction port with
a tennis ball, there by increasing the suction in the
other one. On large pools, you might have to vacuum each
half separately.
- Attach your vacuum
head to the telepole and attach the vacuum hose to the
vacuum head. Slowly feed the hose straight down into the
pool; water will fill the hose and displace the air.
When you have fed all the hose into the pool, there is
water at the other end.
- To avoid draining the
water from the hose keep it at water level, slide the
hose through the skimmer opening and into the skimmer.
Attach the hose to the diverter ( with two-port
skimmers, insert the hose cuff into the skimmer's
suction port). The hose and vacuum head now have
suction. The suction port might be in the side of the
pool below the skimmer in older pools. In this case you
might need to put tennis ball over the skimmer suction
port to increase the suction at the wall port. Make sure
the hose does not contain a significant amount of air
for if air reaches the pump, you will lose prime. If
this occurs, remove the vacuum hose, re-prime the pump,
then try again.
- To Vacuum a pool or
spa, work your way around the bottom and sides of the
pool. If the pool is dirty, vacuum slowly to pick all
the dirt, for moving the vacuum head too quickly, will
stir up the dirt rather than suck it into the vacuum. If
the suction is strong it sucks the vacuum head to the
pool surfaces, then you need to adjust the skimmer
diverter or valves to reduce the flow. You might also
need to lower the wheels on the vacuum head, raising the
vacuum head itself. If the suction is weak, you might
want to lower the vacuum head or you might need to move
the head more slowly around the pool to vacuum it
thoroughly.
If the pool is very
dirty, strainer basket or filter may be filled. When
suction becomes weak, stop vacuuming and empty the
strainer basket or clean the filter.
If the pool contains both fine dirt and leaves, the
leaves will clog the strainer basket. You can use a leaf
canister, which is an inline strainer that collects the
leaves and allows fine dirt to pass on to the filter.
If the spa operates on the same circulation system, as
the swimming pool, simply lift the vacuum out of the
pool and immediately place it into the spa. Do this
quickly because while the vacuum is out of the water,
air enters the hose, causing it temporarily to lose
suction. There should be enough water in the line for it
to re-prime itself.
- When you are finished,
remove the vacuum head from the water. The suction will
rapidly pull the water from the hose so it is advisable
to pull the vacuum head from the pool and the suction
end of the hose from the skimmer simultaneously, remove
the hose from the water, and drain it on the deck.
- After removing the
equipment from the pool, check the pump strainer basket
and filter for any debris. Clean if needed. Replace the
skimmer basket.
Vacuum to leafmaster
Leafmaster is used
instead of the vacuum if the pool is littered with leaves
or heavy debris, then allowing the fine dirt to settle and
vacuuming to the filter.
- A garden hose is
attached to a water supply and then to the leafmaster.
Clip the leafmaster onto the telepole.
- Place the leafmaster
in the pool. Turn on the water supply and vacuum,
covering the pool floor and walls. Because the
leafmaster is large, you can move it quickly and vacuum
the pool, taking care not to stir up the debris either
by the non floating type of hose or by moving the
leafmaster too fast. Emptying the bag periodically may
be needed if there is too much of dirt in the pool.
- Lift and remove the
leafmaster slowly by turning it slightly to one side
from the water to the surface for pulling it straight up
will force the debris back into the pool. Do not turn
the water supply off before removing the leafmaster from
the pool, the loss of vacuum action can dump the
collected debris back into the pool. When the leafmaster
is on the deck, turn off the water supply and clean out
the collection bag.
Brushing
Brushing removes algae
from surfaces of pools or spas. If they are not very
dirty, you can skip vacuuming but brush the walls and
bottom of the pool, starting from the shallow to the deep
end. Directing the dirt toward the main drain so it is
sucked to the filter.
SPA AND WATER FEATURE
CLEANING
The steps outlined for
pool cleaning will work just as well for spas and water
features. Here are a few special tips about what you might
encounter that is unique to these bodies of water.
- Many spas are made of
fiberglass, so take care when vacuuming to avoid
scratching the surfaces.
- Vacuum the corners of
water features and small spas with the spa vacuum
described earlier.
- Evaluate the spa or
water feature when you arrive, before you invest a great
deal of time in cleaning. Test the chemistry first, so
you can determine if you are better advised to drain the
unit rather than clean and treat it. If the water or
surfaces are very dirty, if the water is extremely hard
or cloudy, if the dirt is in among rocks and gravel
where it might be very hard to reach, pump out the water
and clean the unit that way.
- If you do drain a spa
or water feature, be sure the equipment is turned off at
the breaker so the time clock won't turn it on before
you are ready. You might need to set up your submersible
pump and go to another job while the unit is draining.
Your submersible has a small hole in the bottom to
re-circulate the last inch of water to avoid burning out
it's seal, so you can let it run without worrying that
it will run dry.
- Before you clean the
spa or water feature, clean the filter and run some
fresh water (from the garden hose) through the
circulation system to purge any dirty water from the
lines. Nothing is worse than draining, cleaning, and
refilling a spa only to turn the circulation back on and
watch dirty water contaminate your work.
- Be extra careful with
chemical testing and application. Most spas and water
features contain a tiny fraction of the volume of water
in a pool, so they can't absorb a mistake the way a pool
might. It is better to add chemicals more slowly and in
less quantity than you think necessary. You can always
add more, but it is a real problem to remove any excess.
Water
Testing and Application
Follow the general
testing guidelines needed, testing for chlorine residual,
pH, total alkalinity, and acid (or base) demand, calcium
hardness or total hardness and total dissolved solids
should be conducted one a month.
Apply the chemicals as
described in
Water Chemistry. Be careful with chemical bottles on
pool decks for they may leave stains.
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